Starting September 1, 2025, the European Union will prohibit the sale, marketing, and use of gel nail polishes and other cosmetic products that contain trimethylbenzoyl diphenylphosphine oxide—better known as TPO—after classifying it as a carcinogen, mutagen, and reproductive toxicant. Here’s what this means, why the decision was made, and how it compares with the situation in the United States.
What’s Changing in the EU
- The EU Regulation (EC) 2025/877 adds TPO to Annex II of the Cosmetics Regulation, meaning it is now a prohibited substance in cosmetic products.
- From 1 September 2025, any cosmetic product containing TPO—whether sold in stores, supplied to salons, or made available in any professional setting—may no longer be placed on the market or used.
- The decision applies regardless of past use or whether the product was produced before the ban. There is no transitional period for using up existing stock in business or professional settings.
Why TPO Was Banned
- TPO, or trimethylbenzoyl diphenylphosphine oxide, is a photoinitiator used in many gel nail polish formulas. It enables the gel to cure or harden under UV or LED light.
- It has been classified as a CMR substance (Category 1B) under CLP (Classification, Labelling and Packaging Regulation), meaning it is considered carcinogenic, mutagenic, or toxic for reproduction.
- This classification came after studies—mainly in animal models—linked TPO exposure to adverse effects on fertility and reproduction, among other concerns.
What It Means for Salons, Brands, and Consumers
- Producers and importers must reformulate their gel nail polishes to exclude TPO.
- Salons and professionals cannot use TPO-containing products on clients after the ban date, even if those products were purchased beforehand.
- Consumers seeking safer options should look for TPO-free gel nail products or ask salons about ingredients. Also, ensure good ventilation during manicures and consider protective base layers. (These are precautionary measures experts commonly recommend.)
What About the United States?
- As of now, TPO remains legal in the U.S., and there is no federal regulation banning its use in cosmetics.
- Some U.S. brands already offer TPO-free alternatives, especially in anticipation of stricter global regulations.
- Experts emphasize that the EU’s ban is precautionary: much of the evidence comes from high-dose animal studies, rather than human data under real-world use.
Broader Context & Risks
- The EU’s approach reflects its regulatory framework: once a substance is classified as CMR 1A or 1B, it must be listed in Annex II and banned in cosmetics.
- Beyond the chemical itself, other risks associated with gel manicures include UV/LED lamp exposure and infections (e.g. from improper application or lifting of gel from the nail). (These are not directly addressed by the TPO ban but remain part of the broader safety considerations.)
Conclusion
The EU’s ban on TPO in gel polish from 1 September 2025 is a sweeping move: no allowed grace period, no exceptions for professional use, and clear obligations for manufacturers and salons. While the United States has not followed suit, the shift underscores how cosmetic safety standards are evolving globally—and how consumers and businesses alike may need to adjust rapidly.